Learn About Diamonds
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"WHAT ARE DIAMOND CARATS?"
Assistant Curator: I understand today we will be addressing the word “carat” as it applies to diamonds?
Jeweler: Yes, today’s report in regarding the topic of diamond carats. It’s a measure of weight, or more precisely “a carat is a unit of mass - like grams.” In fact, one carat is exactly 200 milligrams. Diamonds are weighed in carats and not grams. It’s the measurement used in the gem industry to describe the weight of a diamond and other gems.
Assistant Curator: You mean, rather than saying: "This diamond weighs 200 milligrams." We would say: "This diamonds weighs 1 carat?"
Jeweler: Exactly.
Assistant Curator: So why don’t we measure the weight of diamonds in grams or ounces?
Jeweler: The answer to that seems to be part of the history of diamonds. It seems that ancient Mediterranean cultures traded in diamonds. Carob trees were quite common in this region. They used these carob seeds as counter weights for their diamond scales. The word “carat” is based on an Hebrew or perhaps the Arabic word (they have a similar pronunciation) for carob seeds. So, a one carat diamond was the equivalent to the weight of a carob seed. This is how the word carat started in the diamond trade. I guess it just stuck.
Assistant Curator: That does not sound very precise or accurate.
Jeweler: You’re not the first one to express this concern. By 1914, the metric standard was established as being the way a carat weight is to be defined. As I said earlier 200 milligrams equals 1 carat. We no longer need a carob tree in our back yard to weigh diamonds.
Assistant Curator: Tell us please, what is the relationship between the weight of a diamond and its price?
Jeweler: As a general rule, larger diamonds are more valuable because of their relative rarity. There are more small diamonds in the world than larger ones. Of course, there are other factors which will determine the value of a diamond such as color and clarity but size in an important factor.
Assistant Curator: Is it difficult to determine the weight of a diamond?
Jeweler: Not at all. There are many diamond scales in the market. It’s very straight forward and simple. You simply place it on the scale!
"WHAT IS DIAMOND CLARITY?"
Assistant Curator: Thank you for joining us in the GalleryAtlantic.com studio for this interview. We are looking foreword to talking with you about the topic of clarity of diamonds. Give us some introductory comments on the topic of diamonds and their purity.
Jeweler: Diamonds are part of the world of nature. Everything in the world of nature has its own unique character and quality. No two rain drops are absolutely identical, so to, no two diamonds are exactly alike. When we define the clarity of diamonds we are referring to these natural characteristics we see within a diamond. We call these natural characteristics: inclusions.
Assistant Curator: What’s an example of an inclusion?
Jeweler: Well, small specks of black carbon within the stone, or an internal, natural crack within in the gem. These are what we call inclusions.
Assistant Curator: You mean blemishes.
Jeweler: No. You have to understand that we are talking about an object of nature. Not a man made item. Nature is not blemished. It’s simply a character inclusion of this piece of nature.
Assistant Curator: Never the less, the fewer inclusions a diamond has the more valuable it is?
Jeweler: For the most part, that’s true. But there are other important factors such as color and size which will contribute to the value of the item.
Assistant Curator: How are these inclusions identified?
Jeweler: Often these distinguishing characteristics are not visible to the naked eye. Under the 10x magnification jeweler’s loop – that’s a small magnifying glass - most inclusions can be identified. Sometimes diamonds are viewed under a high powered microscope. A diamond's clarity is determined by the amount of inclusions present in the stone. Fewer inclusions in a stone will result in a higher clarity grade.
Assistant Curator: Could we call this a “purity” grade?
Jeweler: Yes. The higher the grade, the “cleaner” the stone. The lower the grade, the more “included” the stone.
Assistant Curator: And why are higher clarity stones more valuable?
Jeweler: The higher a diamond's clarity, the greater its brilliant shine. Higher clarity diamonds are also rarer than heavily included ones. These factors influence its value.
Assistant Curator: How are diamonds graded or defined?
Jeweler: There are 5 basic categories of diamond purity. This is based on a fairly standard grading system. Categories are: Flawless, VVS category, VS category, SI category and the “I” category.
Assistant Curator: Fine, perhaps it would be best if we discuss each category one at a time. Let’s start with the “I” category. What does the “I” stand for?
Jeweler: The “I” stands for included. Stones of this category are noticeably included. Simply put, with some squinting but not too much, a man off the street could see the carbon spots in the stone or some other inclusion. Let me just add: the “I” category is divided into three. I3, I2 and I1. “I 3” is, as we said, noticeably spotted but the I2 and I1 stones are looking better. I1 is actual a popular diamond category in America.
Assistant Curator: How so?
Jeweler: Remember, it’s a trade off between size, clarity, color, and cut. A customer may want a larger stone. To fit that size stone into their budget they may have to purchase a more included diamond, like an “I1” or “I2”.
Assistant Curator: The next category is SI.
Jeweler: With 10x magnification Slightly Included, or “SI” grades, can be identified. Never the less, it’s difficult to find these inclusions with the naked eye. These are still very valuable diamonds. This category also has up to three subcategories: SI1, SI2, and sometimes SI3.
Assistant Curator: VS?
Jeweler: “Very Slightly” Included. Only with the use of a 10x magnifying glass would someone be able to spot these inclusions. And generally only an experienced diamond merchant would see these pin point inclusions. VS1 and VS2 are becoming a more popular category in the US.
Assistant Curator: VVS?
Jeweler: The second two levels of grading are the VVS categories. VVS1 and VVS2. The VVS stands for “very very slightly included”. These inclusions generally need a microscope to be identified. Only a professional would likely be able to see these inclusions under a microscope.
Assistant Curator: And what is a flawless stone?
Jeweler: The terms start with Flawless and Internally Flawless. A flawless diamond has no flaws on the surface of the gem or internally. An Internally Flawless grade indicates that only totally insignificant flaws, almost unnoticeable, appear and only on the surface of the stone. This is a rare stone.
Assistant Curator: Which grade would you recommend to customers?
Jeweler: That’s a difficult question to answer. Truthfully I recommend that customers call the Gallery Atlantic toll free number and ask to speak with a diamond consultant.
